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Post by ash on Nov 25, 2008 20:50:18 GMT
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Post by bruenor on Nov 25, 2008 22:46:18 GMT
Vey nice mate!
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Post by jabberwocky on Nov 25, 2008 23:57:37 GMT
Great stuff as always, Ash.
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Post by Tim C on Nov 26, 2008 10:56:00 GMT
Welcome back again mate, as ever your armoured vehicles never fail to impress me. Awesome work.
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Post by ash on Nov 26, 2008 23:29:57 GMT
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Post by Tim C on Nov 28, 2008 8:28:35 GMT
Just great the closeups really show just how much effort has gone into it the damage and the weathering really make this an outstanding piece. I have one of these to do so am interested to know how you achieved this result as a kind of stage by stage process.
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Post by coram on Dec 1, 2008 20:32:35 GMT
Excellent.. i'm sure there is a massively different approach to painting vehicles as opposed to minis and like tim i'd be curious to know some tips All in all i'd say this was a beer night that worked out well worth it, not too many end up like that!
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Post by ash on Dec 2, 2008 10:48:30 GMT
Thanks for the feedback guys, much appreciated. I tend to paint minis with a fair amount of dry-brushing and with the tanks it's more washes and pigments. Fairly standard start, primed with Halfords matt black primer. Whole tank sprayed Tamiya 'Nato green', then stripes of Tamiya 'Wooden deck tan'. I redid the front end with more green. After some selective gloss varnish, decals applied with the aid of Microscale's excellent decal solutions. Once set all the decals received another coat of varnish. All the recessed areas and around rivets hatches etc got a fairly dark wash of brown oils mixed with some black MIG pigments and white spirit; once dry the whole tank received a wash of raw umber oil paint diluted with white spirit. This flows really well over the Tamiya spray paint and gloss varnish, whereas a water-based wash would tend to bead. If applied over GW or other acrylic paints I would give the whole model a coat of varnish (purity seal) first to protect the paint from the white spirit. Once dry I lightly dry-brushed some Vallejo 'Buff' & sand colour over the Tan areas of the camo pattern and Vallejo 'Reflective green' & 'Russian uniform WW2' over the 'Nato green'. Added some camo nets (great for hiding dodgy joins or overlooked moulding lines) and other details. Mmm . . . for some reason a lot of the pictures refuse to show up. Anyway, Next came a fair amount of paint chipping. The way I have got into the habit of doing it is to paint the scuffed/chipped areas in the opposite colours to the camo, so in the green areas I paint thre chips a sand colour and in the tan areas I went with a green. Over the top of that I painted a black/brown colour to look like oxidised bare metal. Some of which was lightly drybrushed with 'gun metal', other bits got an attack of the graphite pencil. Since I painted this I have seen another technique (check out the Imperial Armour Model Masterclass book), where the little sponge pieces from blister packs can be used to apply the paint instead of a brush. Personally I think it looks a lot quicker and the effect is a lot better, so next time I'm going to try that method.
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Post by ash on Dec 2, 2008 11:58:39 GMT
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Post by coram on Dec 2, 2008 12:16:52 GMT
Thanx for the insight ash... an airbrush is definitely the way forward if you intend to keep the interest in vehicles, go for the best you can afford, none of those naff diffuser types, a wee compressor is essential too
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