Step by step Dwarf Hero

[mousekiller]

Chapter 7: Metallics

Ok, this is the part where things get kind of strange. Metallics, for me, are different on every miniature, and so I normally have to experiment with them to get them to be just as I want them to be. Also, we will be using some washes. A wash is nothing more than really watered down paint or ink.

Before we get started I wanted to cover another real quick trick that I use. As I mentioned before, I use some Reaper Master Series and some Vellejo Model Color paints, which come in squeeze bottles. So, to mix paint from these types of paints, I use water bottle tops. It is a really quick, four step process:

Step 1. Pour required amount of paint into bottle top. If you are mixing two types of paint, then pour both colors in.
Step 2. Dip the blunt end of your brush into your water.
Step 3. Remove from water.
Step 4. Place in bottle top and stir. Continue this process until the paint reaches the desired consistency.



With metallics, I tend to do them in a certain order: weapons, armour, jewelry. It doesn't really matter to me if these items require the same color paints, I work them in order so as not to miss anything. So, to start we are going to begin with the blades on the axes.

The colors we will need:
1. Gunmetal Blue (Reaper Master Series)
2. Blackened Steel (Reaper Master Series)
3. Tarnished Steel (Reaper Master Series)
4. True Silver (Reaper Master Series)
5. Pure White (Reaper Master Series)
6. Mithril Silver (Citadel Paints)
7. Black Wash (mix of black paint, future floor polish, and water)



Stage 1: Gunmetal Blue
Complete coverage, you can leave a small black line between the blade and the ornamentation. I use a citadel fine detail brush for this. First picture below.

Stage 2: Gunmetal Blue and Blackened Steel (50:50 mix)
Complete coverage, but leave a little of the Gunmetal Blue showing. Second picture below.

Stage 3: Blackened Steel
Ok, now I drop down to an older and used 3/0 brush. I use an old one because metallics seem to degrade my brushes more than normal paints. I now start painting lines on the axe blade. Third picture below.

Stage 4: Blacked Steel and Tarnished Steel (50:50 mix)
Staying with the lines that I drew before, I begin to thin them. Also, hit the upper edges of the axe. Fourth picture below.

Stage 5: Tarnished Steel
Continuing with the lines, I begin to bring the color up some. Fifth picture below.



Stage 6: Tarnished Steel and True Silver (50:50 Mix)
Now bring the highlights up some by hitting only the edges of the lines. First picture below.

Stage 7: True Silver
More highlighting. Second picture below.

Stage 8: True Silver and Pure White (50:50 Mix)
Hit just the highest points, and the extreme edges of the lines. Third picture below.

Stage 9: Black Wash
Apply a very diluted wash. Continue this process until you are happy with the result, just be very careful not to over do it. Fourth picture below.

Stage 10: Mithril Silver
Last highlight. I don't know what it is about citadels Mithril Silver, but I really like the shine that it produces. Fifth picture.

[menace]

I think your middle name is 'pedantic'! in the best possible way.. painting minis I've now realised a purpose for my old brushes! (doh!)..keep the tips coming, old dogs CAN learn knew tricks ;D

ps.. can't crit your brushwork yet, it's looking verrrrry nice

[matty1001]

I think the bit about using older brushes for metallics is spot on. Though i have seperate brushes for meatallics and non metallics, but both series 7's, so i dont lose any quality

[mousekiller]

Chapter 7: Weapons cont.

Ok, onto the gold. No great wisdom here, just a couple of stages. Only thing new that we will be using is a Brown Ink, but this is applied in the same way as washes. Make sure to water it down so as not to overpower your highlights when you apply it.

Colours we will need:
1. Ancient Bronze (Reaper Master Series)
2. Antique Gold (Reaper Master Series)
3. New Gold (Reaper Master Series)
4. Mithril Silver (Citadel Paints)
5. Brown Ink (Citadel Paints)



Stage 1: Ancient Bronze
Apply this color to all of the parts that will be gold. Make sure to completely cover the black. Take a look at the first picture. I use an old brush for this just like for the silvers.

Stage 2: Brown Wash 1
I use this to pick out the details, and to figure out where to start applying highlights. When dealing with metallics I find it is really hard to highlight without knowing where to put the highlight, because they tend to blend together really well and hide the detail of the mini. Take a look at the second picture below.

Stage 3: Antique Gold
Ok, now start picking out the details with your Antique Gold. I use that same worn out 3/0 brush for this. Take a look at the third picture below.



Stage 4: New Gold
Start really minimizing your use now, especially on the inside threadwork of the weapon, as this will be your final highlight there. Make sure to pick out the fine details of the dragon head. Take a look at the first picture below.

Stage 5: New Gold and Mithril Silver mix
Highlight only the dragon head and handle, as this will set it apart from the inside scroll work of the axe. Take a look at the second picture below.

Stage 6: Brown Wash
Apply this wash only to the inside scroll work of the axe heads. This will further separate the colors of the inside scroll work and the dragon heads. Take a look at the last picture below.

[jabberwocky]

REALLY enjoying watching this, MK. Thanks!

[mousekiller]

Chapter 7: Weapons cont. (wood)

Ok, so even though theses weapons would probably look really great as all metal monstrosities, I have a tendency to try and incorporate wood into my pieces. So, the handles on both axes are going to be made of wood.

Colours needed (all citadel paints):
1. Scorched Brown
2. Bestial Brown
3. Snakebite Leather
4. Desert Yellow
5. Kommando Khaki

This is a recipe I use a lot.



Stage 1: Scorched Brown
Base coat. Cover all of the areas where you want the wood to be (for me this will be the shaft of both weapons). Leave a thin black line between the shaft and the metal pieces. First picture.

Stage 2: Bestial Brown
Ok, using my 3/0 Kolinksy sable brush, I begin to make lines on the wood. They don't have to be straight, or in a similar pattern. What you are trying to do is to simulate wood grain, so use your imagination. Second picture.

Stage 3: Snakebite Leather
Moving away from the shadows, but on the same lines you just created, begin to highlight the lines. Third picture.

Stage 4: Desert Yellow
Another highlight, even further from the shadows. Fourth picture.

Stage 5: Kommando Khaki
Final highlight, only in the extreme center of the lines. Fifth picture.



Up next: Glowing runes....

[Tim C]

Looking good, and I thought my metals were good. I am getting alot out of this and might even one day try using other paints than GW lol.

[mousekiller]

Chapter 7: Weapons cont. (runes)

Ok, now for some fun. We are going to attempt to make the runes on this weapon appear to be very bright and glowing.

Rune Colours (reaper master series):
1. Black
2. Red Brick
3. Deep Red
4. Blood Red
5. Bright Red
6. Phoenix Red
7. Fire Orange
8. Merigold Yellow
9. Sunlight Yellow
10. Lemon Yellow

Seems like a lot of stages, but it is really not that bad. Also, note that I hit the dragons eyes with a couple of the stages.



Stage 1: Black
Ok, if you noticed the primer tends to rub off the more you handle the mini. Also, this stage is a good idea in case you got some other colors on the areas you want to paint. So, just go over your rune areas with some black paint. I am also going to hand paint some runes on the axe head (between the ears of the dragon) so I will outline the shape of the runes that I want. Sorry, no picture of this stage.

Stage 2: Red Brick
For all of these stages I use my 3/0 Kolinsky sable brush. This stage is really to help tone down the darkness of the black, since the end result that we want is going to be a bright color. Cover everything except a very thin line of black. Picture one.

Stage 3: Deep Red
Completely cover everything as before, just leave that really thin line of black. This color will be the deepest shade of the runes. Dot the dragons eyes also. This is really easy to do, just dip your brush in the paint (diluted with water of course), and then rub it across your finger. It is important here to be sure that your brush is not overloaded with water. Also, make sure that you have a nice point. Once all of this is in order, gently wipe your brush across the eye. Sometime there is not enough paint on the brush and you have to redo it. I will try to get pics of how to do this when we go back and do the eyes of the dwarf. Picture two.

Stage 4: Blood Red
Ok, leave just a little bit of the deep red showing in the centers of the runes (very small amount). Picture three.

Stage 5: Bright Red
Work your way out a little more at this stage. Dot the dragon eyes again. Picture four.

Stage 6: Phoenix Red
Ok, now start concentrating on the outer edges of the runes and the tips. Picture five.

Stage 7: Fire Orange
Edges and tips. Picture six.

Stage 8: Merigold Yellow
Edges and tips again. Dragon eyes for the last time. Picture seven.

Stage 9:Sunlight Yellow
Extreme edges and tips. Picture eight.

Stage 10: Lemon Yellow
Be greedy here, only a very small amount on the very extreme eges and tips. Picture nine.



And here is a final pic of the whole dwarf:



Up next: Loin cloth

[mousekiller]

Chapter 8: Loin Cloth

Ok, so this stage is probably the most fun, because it gives us a chance to add some variety to the miniature. Now, eventually we will do some tatoos on the body which will be in blue, so to tie that in my main color for the loin cloth will also be blue. I like to paint my dwarfs with a scottish type background, so my complimentary color for blue is white.

The Colours:

Blue - (all Reaper Master Series except the first one)
1. Midnight Blue (Citadel Paints)
2. Ultramarine Shadow
3. Ultramarine Blue
4. Ultramarine Highlight
5. True Blue
6. Sky Blue
7. Pure White

White - (all Reaper Master Series except the first one)
1. Bestial Brown (Citadel Paints)
2. Stained Ivory
3. Yellowed Bone
4. Creamy Ivory
5. Linen White
6. Pure White



Stage 1: Base coat of Midnight Blue on the loin cloth and on the straps in the front under the armour. Once that is dry run a stripe across the bottom of the loin cloth with Bestial Brown. First picture.

Stage 2: Leaving the Midnight blue in the deepest shadows, paint Ultramarine Shadow. Second picture.

Stage 3: Ultramarine Shadow and a 50% mix of Ultramarine Blue. Work up the bends in the cloth, leaving the deep fissures. Third picture.



Stage 4: Ultramarine Blue. From here on out it is just a case of feathering up as we have discussed in a previous chapter. First picture.

Stage 5: Ultramarine Blue and a 50% mixture of Ultramarine Highlight. Second picture.

Stage 6: Ultramarine Highlight. Third picture.



Stage 7: Ultramarine Highlight and a 50% mixture of True Blue. First picture.

Stage 8: True Blue. Second picture.

Stage 9: True Blue and a 50% mixture of Sky Blue. At this point you should be concentrating the paint at the very top of the folds. Third picture.



Stage 10: Sky Blue. Really start concentrating on the upper portions of the folds. First picture.

Stage 11: Sky Blue and a 50% mix of Pure White. Just the very tips of the highest portions of the folds. Second picture.



Stage 12: Ok, at this point we are going to highlight that brown strip. Go over it with a 50% mix of Bestial Brown and Stained Ivory. First picture.

Stage 13: Leave only the deepest recesses, go over the strip with Stained Ivory. Second picture.

Stage 14: Back to feathering. Stained Ivory with a 50% mix of Yellowed Bone. Third picture.

Stage 15: Yellowed Bone. Fourth picture.



Stage 16: Yellowed Bone with a 50% mix of Creamy Ivory. First picture.

Stage 17: Creamy Ivory. Second picture.

Stage 18: Linen White. Just on the extreme folds.

Stage 19: Pure White. Just on the high points of the extreme folds.



And here is the overall picture:



Next up will be the armour and jewels...

[mminiatures]

Looks excellent!

[Tim C]

Gets my vote, good job so far,

[bruenor]

Looks great, seems an awful lot of work, but it pays off.

[menace]

coming along nicely... a very definite style developing with the methodology

[tadme48]

Loving every post on this.

It's like a good book, can't wait to see how it all turns out in the end.

Well done

[mutantpotato]

I can't belive I have missed this thread The skin is great, and so is the metallics. Great tips and wonderful painting. Two tumbs up for mr mousekiller! ;D

I also use separate brushes and water pots of metallic and non metallic paints. If you mix them, your none metals paint could get flakes of metal in them, and belive me, that's a nightmare!

[mousekiller]

Sorry for the delay...

Chapter 9: Gems, jewels, and armour

Ok, the gold jewelry and armour will be painted in the same manner as the weapons so I won't be going over that again.

Gems, however, are a whole different story, and really easy.

Here are the colors we are going to need (all are Reaper Master Series):

0= Black
1. Red Brick
2. Deep Red
3. Blood Red
4. Bright Red
5. Phoenix Red
6. Fire Orange
7. Pure White
8. Future Floor Polish (or a shiny gloss)



Stage 1. Recoat all of the areas you plan to do with black. Picture one below.

Stage 2. Fill 3/4 of the gem in a moon shape with Red Brick. Picture two below.

Stage 3. Fill 3/4 of the red brick moon shape with Deep Red. Picture three below.



Stage 4. Fill 3/4 of the deep red with blood red. Picture one below.

Stage 5. Fill 3/4 of the blood red with bright red. Picture two below.

Stage 6. Fill 3/4 of the bright red with Phoenix Red. This should be about a sliver by now. Picture three below.



Stage 7. Fill just a small part of the phoenix red with Fiery Orange. Picture one below.

Stage 8. Add a white dot to the 1/4 black. Picture two below.

Stage 9. Finally, coat all of your gems with Future Floor Polish. This will give them that extra bit of shinyness. You should wait until after you dullcoat to do this though, I have done it here just to show you the result. Picture three below.



And here is the overall figure...



Next up, leather...

Thanks for all the comments guys, I really appreciate them. Mutantpotato: When I go back and edit this whole thread I will add that advice, great tip. Thanks.

[roguetrader]

looking great so far, i am really enjoying watchin this mini come to life, are you gonna transfer this to tutorialswhen its done?

[Tim C]

Me too I have ordered this one and will quite likely use alot of your guide as reference.

[matty1001]

Iv got two of these now, and still havn't made a start on one of them.

[tadme48]

I am really enjoying this. Will have to read the whole thread again and make sure I have not missed anything

**** Well Done *****

[racssirt]

Fantabulous work my friend! You are a very talented painter!

[mutantpotato]

It keeps getting better and better. I really like where this is going. The mini is just awesome, and I can't wait to see it finished.

[mousekiller]

Thanks for all the comments guys, you really make me feel very humble with praise from such talented painters as are here. Now, if I can just find time to drop in and see how some of your WIP's are coming along... I feel like these last few weeks have been full of work, paint for a minute, try to post pics, work....

Chapter 10: Boots

Ok, this one is pretty simple and went by pretty quickly.

The colours:

Leather -

1. Scorched Brown (Citadel Paints)
2. Muddy Brown (Reaper Master Series)
3. Earth Brown (Reaper Master Series)
4. Leather Brown (Reaper Master Series)

Fur -

1. Scorched Brown (Citadel Paints)
2. Vermin Brown (Citadel Paints)
3. Vomit Brown (Citadel Paints)
4. Bubonic Brown (Citadel Paints)



For the leather:

Stage 1.
Apply a basecoat of Scorched brown over the entire boot, to include the fur area. Picture one below. You can also reference this picture when we start the fur.

Stage 2.
Muddy Brown. Begin picking out the raised areas, leaving only the deepest creases and a small amount between the leather portion and the fur. Picture two below.

Stage 3.
50% Muddy Brown and 50% Earth Brown mix. Begin highlighting the raised areas of the leather. Picture three below.



Stage 4.
Earth Brown. Continue highlighting the raised areas, leaving the lower areas Muddy Brown. Picture one below.

Stage 5.
50% Earth Brown and 50% Leather Brown mix. Continue highlighting the raised areas, leaving the Earth Brown showing at the bottom of the creases. Picture two below.

Stage 6.
Leather Brown. Highlight only the very tops of the creases. Picture three below.



Fur -

Stage 1.
Scorched brown. Reference Step one for leather to see a picture, but this will be your base color.

Stage 2.
Vermin Brown. Pick out all the individual hairs with this color, leaving the deep parts scorched brown. Picture one below.

Stage 3.
Vomit Brown. Highlight the tips of the hairs, about halfway down each strand. Picture two below.

Stage 4.
Bubonic Brown. Highlight the very tips of each strand of hair. Picture three below.



And, finally here is an overall update.



Up next, tattoos....

[mousekiller]

Chapter 11: Tattoos.

Ok, some of you may be a little disappointed with me on this chapter, but I couldn't bring myself to do an elaborate tattoo, I just did not want to cover up any more skin than I had too. Plus, I am severely lacking when it comes to two dimensional art, I just don't have the talent to do intricate designs. So, what I did do was a couple of runes that mirror the runes on the axe.

The coulours:

1. Dragon Black (Reaper Pro Paint)
2. Ultramarine Shadow (Reaper Master Series)
3. Ultramarine Blue (Reaper Master Series)
5. True Blue (Reaper Master Series)
6. Sky Blue (Reaper Master Series)



Stage 1. Darken in the design that you want with Dragon Black (or a suitable black color). In this case I have gone with a simple design using the runes from the axe. Picture one below.

Stage 2. Using the Ultramarine Shadow, I have blocked in the black runes, leaving just a small amount of black around the edges. Picture two below.

Stage 3. Using Ultramarine Blue, I have filled in the Ultramarine Shadow, leaving only a small edge showing. Picture three below.

Stage 4. Using True Blue, I have hit only the raised areas of the tattoos. Picture four below.

Stage 5. Usine Sky Blue, very sparingly, I have hit all the corners and extreme raised areas. Picture five below.



And an overall picture:



Ok, so not what some of you may have been expecting, but if you have an aritistic nature you may have still learned something and can hopefully apply it with your abilities.

Up next, the ORC HEAD...

[roguetrader]

looks great mate